The top twelve who made an impact at the Wills India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014 show in New Delhi, held from March 26-30, 2014, offered a variety of crafts, fabrics and designs that had an unconventional touch and unique style statement.
His Award Winning Collection at the International Woolmark 2014 contest was on display at Wills India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2014. Called “The Lotus Effect” the fabulous wool yarn gave a new dimension to the medium. Tie and dye added to the beauty of the creations with the ultra-light merino wool jersey; while Bandhani on Merino wool was indeed an innovative technique. It was a Trans seasonal collection from the handicraft and handlooms of India with international appeal.
“House of Cards” was the apt name for the collection by the designer duo. Inspired by the 14th century design of cards in Spain and Portugal the patterns of the decks were reflected in the embellishments and graphic prints. Spades, Hearts, Clubs and Diamonds were in vermillion, green, black, white, mint and powder blue for capes, Spanish boleros, high waist pants, skirts with brass buttons and gold cord work.
Using the patterns of the Patola as an inspiration for her embellishments, Rimzim Dadu’s chiffon was shredded in strips and twisted into cords of varying colours and attached to form the pattern into colour blocked designs. Using leather and chiffon the result was an unconventional line of cocktail wear, which played with chevrons, diamonds and geometric floral designs.
It is impossible not to include Kallol Dutta’s vision for Autumn/Winter 2014 in this list. Called “Paranoi Pronoia” the designer had his unconventional intricate drapes in black, white and red to present his concept of pulses ad pain. Prints of his portrait were used lavishly for the sombre grey/black saris while abstract red slashes highlighted floppy midis, geometric zigzags added to the quirky silhouettes of shapeless kaftans which featured blotches of red.
From New Zealand’s Maoris Nachiket Barve’s collection called “MAIA” had that marked tribal touch. The embroidery on the simple silhouettes was based on the Kirituhi Tattoos as well as the silver Ferns, which were created with French knots and bead embroidery. With lush fabrics like georgette, organza, chiffon, crepe, tulle, velvet, Dupion and faux leather, Nachiket offered boxy tops, culottes, minis, capes and slouchy jackets in colour blocking and rich hues.
Fragile as the sun’s rays and the dew drops on the flowers the beauty of the white collection with hints of grey, black, off white and gold was an ethereal offering. Called “Bhinna Shadja” named after the Raag of the same name the sheer beauty of the weaves for soft dresses, saris, blouses in woven silk and khadi had minute detailing which highlighted the sheer beauty of the garments. Mixing construction with drapes and adding woven woollen motifs, embroidery of cords, beads and textures, the total look was stunning from all angles
GAURAV JAI GUPTA
Over the years this master of weaving techniques has created great fabrics and this season his collection called “V” for vendetta drew inspiration from Dongrai Kandh tribe of Western Orissa. The engineered hand woven fabrics as always with stainless steel, cotton and wool along with monofilament silks, were turned into separates which reflected industrial work wear. The earthy tone along with pops of purple and yellow, coal blue was ideal for the coming season along with handmade glazed terracotta neckpieces.
Creating a perfect Autumn/Winter 2014 collection, Aneeth Arora for the Pero label played with gingham checks in varying sizes in shades of red, white and blue. Double breasted jackets over white lacy minis, long coats, scarves, gloves, leg warmers high waisted front button trousers, cropped tops and gum boots completed the look for the cold climes. The silhouettes were western and timeless giving the collection an international appeal.
The Grand Finale collection called “ElecTRON” was aimed at the New Age dresser who wants to make a dramatic impact. Glittering gold and black beadwork dazzled on the plunge neck gowns and cocktail shifts, while black sheer maxis looked seductive over body suits in sensuous tulle. Glamorous feminine and sexy, the collection was pure drama all the way.
Called “Escape” Zubair Kirmani’s collection brought to the forefront the craft of Kashmir. Adding the Khatamband elements with the tilla work, each garment was stitched and embroidered in Kashmir and highlighted with the craft of the region. Fabrics were feminine and sheer, while the colour story was in jewel tones for the graceful gowns, sensuous cocktail dresses and glittering sheaths.
Recreating the magic of the British India, the collection called “East India Company” was inspired by the fashion sense of Memsahibs of the Raj. Shades of oxblood, navy, purple, crimson, burgundy, teal and burnt orange appeared in pretty English floral prints. Silk was the base with lace as a feminine addition with clever hand embroidery and thread work. Blending the Edwardian and Victorian look, Shruti presented an international line ideal for the coming season.
ABRAHAM & THAKORE
Based on the urban shikar the palette of wild silk in gold hues with khaki gave the image of safari uniforms ready for combat. The tussar silk trench coats with saris, blouson jackets from Eri ahimsa silk, long kurtas and baggy salwars presented a perfectly coordinated collection. Ikat and Jamdani weaves were presented in a contemporary form for this striking collection.