By Meher Castelino
The Amazon India Couture Week 2015, which took place in Delhi from August 7 to 11 2015, featured 12 designers for couture bridal wear. And the collections were a mind boggling line of wedding trousseaux that will have the bride spoilt for choice. Although the silhouettes were regular and basic with hardly any innovation, it was the focus on amazing embroidery that was the eye catching element for every collection.
opening show of the Amazon India Couture Week 2015 by Sabyasachi Mukherjee was a grim but glamorous event. “Bater” (a game bird) was the title of the collection, which featured shades of oxidised gold, bronze, dark blue, grey and green. Figure hugging lehengas and saris were teamed with long jackets, capes and corsets along with jumpsuits and bustiers, which added a sensuous touch. The embroidery was intense with sequins in dull gold creating the sombré, but dazzling look. The clutches and shoes by Christian Louboutinadded to the drama of the show.
Gaurav Gupta presented “Silt and Cipher” which was the unconventional title of the exotic collection of Red Carpet glamour. Tiered skirts, cinched waists and favoured peplums gave the gowns, sari-gowns and lehenga gowns a fusion touch. Figure hugging or voluminous, the contrasting silhouettes gave the stunning creations dazzled in shades of Oil blue, silver, withered peach, nude and bright gold a sophisticated regal look. Actress Kalki Koechlin was the show stopper.
Varun Bahl introduced his luxury bridal line called “Aurum by Varun Bahl“. Traditional creations with a modern touch were evident in the trousers and glamorous blouses, saris and lehengas, which were in ivory, pink, blue, old rose, black, maroon, burgundy and gold. Cropped tops and skirts, dhoti pants and maxis were ornate with gorgeous floral embroidery. Floor kissing slit sleeves of jackets were splashed with floral embroidery, while black embellished trousers were teamed with sheer black asymmetric tunics. A dramatic and exotic collection indeed!
“The Tree of Life” collection by Rahul Mishra was inspired by the ancient Chintz, which appeared throughout the line on sheer and opaque panels of Lehengas, biker/bomber jackets, jumpsuits, blouses and capes. Sheer handlooms and silks were the base of the luxe-cum-sport inspired bridal trousseau that brought in an innovative angle to this genre of fashion. Colours moved from ivory to black and then jewel tones to complete the story.
Anju Modi’s “Kashish” couture collection inspired by ancient Persia recreated glamour with ornate lehengas worn with anarkalis, long sleeved cholis, jackets and dramatic dupattas, in rich fabrics like silk, velvet, tulle and organza. The colours were a rainbow of shades that worked beautifully for the ornate collection which followed the popular basic traditional silhouettes.
Making his debut at Couture Week, Debarun was influenced by Bollywood and showed an evolution of film costumes for bridal couture. Starting with the 1930’s, the designer moved to 1990 for a cross section of trousseau wear. With handwoven textiles as the base in rich silks and velvets, dyeing and screen prints, the designer added zardosi bead and thread work, appliqués, floral trellis and ornate motifs that created the highlights on the ensembles.
“Husn- e-Taa’iraat” or (beauty of a bird) was Rohit Bal’s magnificent collection title and that is exactly what it was. Recreating a hint of Shakespearean drama, the neck ruffles with roses along with head gear set the mood of the collection. Exquisite Persian embroidery was the centre of attraction on lehengas, structured sherwanis and jackets, which featured floral birds, elephants and camels as embellishments. Clusters of roses around the neck and head of the models in black, white or red added that unmistakeable couture touch.
His collection “Le’amoureuse” (the beloved) was a visual delight and a journey through a fashionable floral garden. Manav Gangwani’s colours were dramatic gunmetal grey, fresh coral, aqua and sensuous purple. Opulent fabrics like tulle, sequinned georgettes, organza and French laces were the backdrop. Romantic dreamy gowns and gown saris along with innovative pantsuits were splashed with thread work, appliqués, sequins and Swarovski crystals.
Reynu Tandon brought back the grandeur of Persia with the “Shahbanu” collection. Shararas, anarkalis and lehengas glittered with gold work, while georgette and velvet formed the opulent background. Zardosi added to the shimmer on royal blue and wine red along with splashes of mirror work.
Rimple and Harpreet Narula
For their collection “Maharadjah and Co” Rimple and Harpreet Narula were inspired by Indian Maharajas. Shades of ivory, beige, antique gold and velveteen ruby were the base of the ornate creations. ‘Preciosa’ crystals added the bling factor, while the silhouettes moved from dramatic capes and robes to sheer fluid jackets, regal cloaks and lehengas, which exuded a majestic fashion statement.
The designer’s “Sailing Bride Collection” was aimed at destination weddings on a yacht. It was a fusion line of lehengas with knit Tees or skivvies instead of the conventional blouses or cholis as well as sultry gowns, which were a blend of cultures in shades of coral, starfish, shell, sun yellow and sand.
“The Empress Story” was the impressive regal name of Manish Malhotra’s Grand Finale collection. Textured fabrics, luxurious gowns, flowing long lehengas and skirts worn with ornate boleros dazzled in exquisite silk. Colours that worked ranged from metallic silver to antique gold, burgundy, old rose, pearl grey and coffee brown. Thread work was turned into 3D mushroom flowers and bird motifs.