Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020
By Meher Castelino
When the fashion week theme is summer/resort then the collections have to match the season. Ten designers ensured that their looks at the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020 season that celebrated 20 years of Lakmé Fashion Week from February 12 to 16 at JioWorld Garden Mumbai, offered the perfect lines that will delight the buyers when the sun goes overhead with its hot rays streaming down. The fabrics favoured stayed within the sheer looks, while the colours most favoured were pure white or ivory with large doses of very bright hues from the rainbow.
The brand’s “Yours Truly” collection was truly created with summer mercury levels in mind. In white cotton, cotton-silk, Chanderi and mulmul, the Sanganer delicate block prints with tiny posies and discreet French knots, sequins and thread work created the perfect look. The silhouettes were relaxed with lots of flare and flounce as well as tiers and ruffles that added a feminine quality to the ensembles. The detailing was delicately incorporated with pleats and lace along with tiny bows that added to the fragile quality of the garments.
The colours were muted and mid hued, with indigo and grey being prominent for the collection called “Evolve 2020”. The look had a timeless appeal with the relaxed boxy but feminine silhouettes that would be ideal for the rising mercury. Hand painted fabrics and hand block prints added to the rustic charm of the garments. Circles and stripes were the favoured motifs for the patterns but once again in a very discreet muted form. The shirt dresses, pants and hoodies were ideal summer wear options.
The collection called “A Summer Poem” was devoted to the theme. The show “Crafted in Crochet” brought the craft to centre stage on feminine summer wear. Crochet was turned into myriad flowers and florets as well as lace, which were used creatively to add detailing to the garments. The base fabrics were soft organdie, Chanderi and Kotah silk. The collection comprised an assortment of dresses, tunics, blouses and shirts along with a few saris. The embroidery was delicate and the interesting additions were the accessories like bags, totes, headbands, scarves and dupattas.
The “I Listen to Colour” collection had an African inspiration so the pulsating hues of the theme created a vibrant look. The fabrics were linen, a specialty of the brand along with organza and mulmul at times edged with flirty tassels and fringes. The ten different segments brought in a variety of silhouettes; detailing and textures that ensured that the garments were ideal for day as well as evening wear. Pleating, discharge prints, resist-dyeing, screen prints, quilting, crochet, Shibori, clamp dyes and embroidery were the creative additions.
It was a fun line for the young dresser during the coming months. Called “Cupcake” the look followed the colour story of the title as candy tones of baby blue, bubble gum pink, lemon yellow and mint green along with coral created a colourful mélange for the clothes. The flouncy, frothy fabrics included cotton silk, Doria and Chanderi, which were highlighted with ruffles and pleats. Tassels and frills further highlighted the style quotient of the collection. Floral thread work with cupcake and butterfly motifs added to the cool look of the garments.
The works of artist Van Gough inspired the collection called “Viscoso”. The clothes were eye-catching with pastel tones of blue, yellow, white and purple. Blends of cotton silk and linen were the foundation of the creations. Detailing was just right for the hot summer months as floral appliqués, French knots and Jamdaani motifs added to the look of the ensembles. The silhouettes, drapes and layering gave the garments a mix and match quality for the coming months.
Nothing can beat a chikankari white kurta for the summer months. Kotwara the brand that raised chikankari to designer level unveiled the “Baharan” collection that showcased the craft for traditional indian as well as some daring western summer wear. White was the focal point along with olive, pink, ivory and black. Adding a sparkle was zari as well as appliques and kaamdani work, while Gotta Patti work was used for an occasional detailing or replaced the conventional dupattas. The line had kurtas, palazzos shirtdresses; strappy summer tops, pants and of course lehenga, choli and dupatta trios.
The “Hututi Summer Collection” was an extension of the designing duo’s ‘Seoul Series’ lines. The vibrant colours of the Korean countryside brought to life the totally pure resort and holiday wear collection with maillots, bikinis and trikinis along with sheer fluid robes that created the perfect look when the temperatures rise. Bustierswere teamed with saris to present the summer wardrobe for the ethnic wear dresser. Jumpsuits, skirts, maxis and minis some with lace and macramé brought Avant Garde fashion for the coming season.
Verandah by Anjali Patel Mehta offered pure resort wear with the “Jaisalmar” collection. It was a good blend of vintage motifs from the early 80’s with modern day holiday wear. Sheer jackets, floral appliqués and tassels were also seen for dresses, jackets, maxis, saris and separates; the fabrics were recycled denim along with Tencel™ and EcoVero™. The silhouettes were loose or boxy and baggy with a marked boho Chic look for the creations.
The ‘Ikai’ label by Ragini Ahuja had ideal summer wear. It was a pristine ivory line with hints of black. The emphasis was on cutwork along with tassels and braiding. There were relaxed blouses, shorts with beach robes, kurtas with side slit pants, along with lots of layering and pleating for the assorted garments. The fabrics that brought the collection to life were cotton silk and hand woven Chanderi that were the perfect base for the garments.