India – Runway Radar: Hottest Trends from Lakmē Fashion Week X FDCI

It was the 25th Anniversary of the, Lakmē Fashion Week (LFW), now held in collaboration with the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), and Reliance Brands (RBL). From March 26 – 30, 2025, the leading designers of India scorched the runways with their creations at the Jio World Convention Centre at this Mumbai edition of the LFW X FDCI Fashion Week. The shows are telecast live over social media, with designers and the audience too sharing a blitz of pictures, reaching a wider viewership than could fit in the show area. Summarizing the shows, Meher Castelino said, “What was observed proved to be quite surprising, since summer 2025 will see reworked looks that have been popular for several decades in the past.” Here is her trend report.

BAGGY COMFORT

TARUN TAHILIANI

ASOS

THE STOIQUE LABLE BY ARSHNA RAJ

RAHUL MISHRA

AMIT AGGARWAL

The oversized baggy silhouette isn’t something new for men’s and women’s wear, but by tweaking the styles there was a little excitement. Amit Aggarwal’s balloon pants gave a direction to comfort, while the ASOS label brought to India by Reliance Retail for its E-tailer, Ajio, emphasised the boxy, square silhouette for men’s jackets  with loose trousers. Rahul Mishra too gave his male buyers comfort and a more fluid feel with his heavily, embroidered, denim, knee length, coat and trouser. The Stoïque label by Arshna Raj moved away completely from the curves of a woman’s body for the baggy, short, jacket, flared skirt and blouse. Tarun Tahiliani’s latest look was all about relaxed leisure wear, so the kaftan returned with interesting embellishments.

BODY CONFIDENCE

FALGUNI & SHANE PEACOCK

ASOS

RAHUL MISHRA

SHIVAN NARRESH

YOUSEF AKBAR

NAMRATA JOSHIPURA

The very popular body con dress has never moved off the trend charts. The name derived from “Body Confidence” or “Body Conscious” was also called ‘bodikon’ by the Japanese in the 1980’s. The silhouette has been attributed to Harve Léger who created the bandage dress and Azzadine Alaia – both concentrated on highlighting a women’s curves since women in the 80’s and 90’s concentrated on keeping their bodies fit, curvy and sexy.

Projecting the body con look ASOS offered a sleek long-sleeved, black, V neck, lace gown, while Falguni Shane Peacock’s ice blue shimmering creation was moulded to the body. Namrata Joshipura’s black body-hugging jumpsuit was balanced with a long-sleeved, cropped jacket, while Rahul Mishra’s intricately crafted, Bandhani, will-power, gown with a thigh high slit, stayed true to the trend. The Shivan and Narresh playsuit emphasised the body with a discreet illusion inset. Arabian designer Yousef Akbar’s simple, black, long-sleeved gown with an accent on a cut-out midriff and a plunging neckline, was the perfect example of the trend.

CORSET COUTURE

MOHAMMED MAZHAR

YASG PATIL’S LABEL – THE ANTIQUE PIECE

ZA ZA

AMIT AGGARWAL

The first corsets developed in 1500-1550 in Europe were torturous creations that often caused women to swoon gracefully at formal events. Fortunately, the corset is a hot favourite in 2025 and not so dangerous and appears as an accompaniment with various ensembles. Amit Aggarwal’s bralette corset revealed the exposed boning, while Mohammed Mazhar caused a sensation with his wooden breast plate like corset with detailed motifs. Designer Yash Patil renowned for his corsets, which are coveted by celebs and Bollywood stars in India is the master corsetier. Emphasised with dramatic cording Yash Patil’s label The Antique Piece only concentrated on corsets. Russian designer Za_Za’s corset flows into a peplum and was sprinkled with floral motifs.

HEAD ON

SHIVAN NARRESH

ZAID KHATRI

MAX URBAN

KAZMA ASKER

SOUMYA GOYAL

SHAKIL AHMED

Decorative headgear is now a trend for fashion followers in 2025. From scarves, bandana, hairbands to turbans, hats, caps and jewellery, the head gets attention as fashion moves from the top downwards. Shakil Ahmed’s chained silver head ornaments looked beautifully feminine, while the bucket hat from Shivan and Narresh was ideal for the hot summer months. Somya Goyal’s bonnets had a futuristic but retro sporty touch. Zaid Khatri’s mirror work face mask cum head cover added a touch of mystery to the wearer. The simple beret could look funky with a jewelled tassel by Kazma Asker and the floppy hat from Max Urban will protect the face.

SHOULDERS TO SLEEVES

SALIM AZZAM

RAHUL MISHRA

ZA ZA

ANURAG GUPTA

ANURAG GUPTA

THE QUARTER LABEL BY SOUMYA LOCHAN

It was sometime in the 1950s that the V silhouette became a rage with padded shoulders that first appeared in the 30s, 40s and then again, the 80s 2000 and 2010. It was termed as power dressing for women. In 2025 designers pay intense attention to shoulders for both men’s and women’s wear – this time in a more exaggerated manner that at times almost looks comical. Anurag Gupta’s men’s wear had extended shoulders to unbelievable limits, while Falguni Shane Peacock brought oversized shimmering jackets. Gaurav Jagtiani’s shoulder design almost merged with the sleeves. The Quarter label by Somya Lochan worked on a square shape look. Rahul Mishra known for his exaggerated sleeves and shoulders, continued them for his Bandhani crafted mini. Arabian designer Salim Azzam concentrated on sleeves with clusters of 3D rosettes for a shirt style dress and Russian designer Za-Za gave an exotic touch to shoulders.