PART 2 – Day 5 – Day 8 Grand Finale
When over a dozen film stars flew in from Mumbai to walk the ramp or claim front-row seats, Delhi’s fashion week became a spectacle of celebrity. Phones went up, hashtags flew, and the coverage focused more on who was watching than what was shown. At Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 — presented with Reliance Brands and under the FDCI banner, held at the Taj Palace Hotel from July 23 to 30 — serious fashion journalism was mostly sidelined. Fourteen designers showed across eight days, but the conversation rarely moved beyond star power.
Now that the noise has cleared, Meher Castellino — the Grand Dame of Indian fashion journalism — brings you her expert viewpoints on what was actually worth noticing.
- For the convenience of the reader, the article is in two parts.
(please click) Part 1 – Opening show – Day 4
Part 2 – Day 5 – Grand Finale
By Meher Castelino
It was a glittering cavalcade of wedding wear that will thrill the bridal couple during the coming season. Colours rivalled the rainbow, while the silhouettes were quite adventurous and at times innovative or extreme. A lot of effort, time and great dollops of creativity was put together to present collections that will appeal to bridal wear buyers.
But the most important aspect of the event was the fact that Indian Couture cannot exist without embroidery by the master craftsmen of the country. The bridal fashion event was undoubtedly a homage to India’s ace embroiderers and artisans. The magic of the embroidery was evident in every collection of the 14 designers. At times, creative construction was not evident for ensembles, but it was the expert craftsmanship that enhanced the beauty of the creations.
There is no doubt that embroidery is the foundation and basis of Indian fashion and without this very important aspect, Indian fashion designers will be at the crossroads of creativity.
DAY – 5
RITU KUMAR – ‘Threads of Time: Reimagined’
The legendary Ritu Kumar India’s first designer label returned to the Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 with a grand show. The label now helmed by Amrish Kumar, Ritu’s son unveiled a collection “Threads of Time: Reimagined” that matched the design sensibilities of Ritu’s fashion directions.
The collection recreated the looks of the past and present, with rich textiles, crafts and silhouettes as the base. The show opened with a Bridge/Diffusion look of separates, jackets, kurtas and tunics and then moved to timeless bridal and occasion wear, featuring the grand lehenga, choli and dupatta trios for the wedding festivities. Florals, paisleys and traditional motifs came alive on silks and velvets. Prints were in earthy tones and embellishments highlighted the beauty of the Indian crafts that were the focal point of the collection. The “Threads of Time: Reimagined” offering will once again serve as timeless, heirloom pieces for the buyers.
SHANTNU AND NIKHIL – ‘Metropolis’
Shantnu and Nikhil concentrated on Indian bridal men’s wear with their “Metropolis” collection. It was a sleek, sharply, tailored look at masculine couture with a few women’s wear sprinkling. From the stylish suits with ruffled necklines to modern sherwanis, cropped bandhgalas and tailored trousers, there was a fashion forward touch that will appeal to the modern male.
Ceremonial dressing took on an innovative path with dual toned embroidery, sculpted waistbands and layered pearl inners. Colours were restricted to ivory, black and white, with hints of khaki and an occasional baby pink for women’s wear.
Women’s wear had a marked androgynous touch when cinched waistbands and ruffled construction was evident for the well-tailored sets in a palette of ivory that was highlighted with gold and pearl accent. Long-sleeved cropped jacket with ruffled shirt looked ideal with black, high slit, long skirt, pinstripe trousers and blush pink jacket with the Little Lord Fauntleroy style shirt created a stylish trio, while the all-white wide trousers, shirt and floor length coat was all about drama.
DAY 6
JAYANTI REDDY – ‘Reclaimed Opulence’
Jayanti Reddy is now a regular at couture weeks and her second presentation was a story in sustainability when left-over textiles and embroidery archival pieces were merged with the latest techniques. The collection called “Reclaimed Opulence” featured 35 women’s and 15 men’s wear that spoke a language of ornate embroidery layering and quaint motifs. The hues of jackets, corsets and capes played with Jayanti’s favourite tones like purple gold, red, mustard and mint.
Shararas were teamed with flared peplum Kurtis, while corsets were ideal with flowing lehengas and one-shoulder ponchos, while saris shimmered at times with intense glitter or moved gracefully in lace and appliqués. The placement embroidery at times in silver highlighted the solid red, black and green. The collection was a pot-pouri of silhouettes, crafts and styles that will appeal to a cross section of buyers.
ROHIT BAL – ‘Kash-Gul’
It is always difficult to continue designing for a fashion brand after the founder has passed away as the brand’s sensibilities may get diluted or abandoned by the new direction.
This was seen in the Satya Paul and Wendell Rodricks cases when the two designers with very distinct identities passed away and the brands floundered with new designers at the helm.
Fortunately, this did not happen with the first collection under Rohit Bal’s label at the Hyundai India Couture Week 2025, which was a befitting tribute to the late designer’s memory. The new creative director, Fraze Tasnim unveiled a brilliant collection “Kash-Gul” in two parts – white and black/deep wine that the late designer would have been truly proud of.
The collection was a perfect continuation of Rohit’s vision and his love for Kashmir and its crafts. Created in Chanderi, Matka Silk and velvet the men’s and women’s ensembles appeared like a poetic symphony on the ramp. The sprinkling of timeless embroidery and the majestic silhouettes turned into grand bridal wear, will encourage couples to take their vows again even if they were married earlier.
The opening white ensembles with tonal embroidery that gradually moved into coloured cascading florals were an ethereal dream as diaphanous, flared, multi-tiered kurtas floated on the runway. The lehengas and cholis, as well as the men’s kurtas, sherwanis and jackets were dramatic with silver and gold embellishments. The addition of the houndstooth fabric for collars and cuffs was an innovative, contemporary touch to the apparel.
The “Kash-Gul” collection by Fraze Tasnim was a perfect offering of Rohit Bal’s vision and its apparent, the brand is definitely in the safe and creative care of Rohit’s protégé.
DAY – 7
AISHA RAO – ‘Wild at Heart’
Making her couture week debut, Aisha Rao’s “Wild at Heart” collection was a maximalist ode to the great wilderness emphasized with metallics. With nature as the inspiration, the embellishments had a vocabulary that revolved around banana leaves, lotus blooms and palms all cleverly appliquéd to create a dramatic impact.
The seductive bralette with strands of crystals was teamed with an ornate fishtail skirt, moulded jackets appeared with shararas, while the sleek gowns, some with heavily embellished corsets and balloon skirts added a new dimension to bridal couture. The traditional lehenga, choli and dupatta trio were emphasized with cascading multicoloured embroidery in jewel tones. The black angular cut, fish tail gown with intense embroidery, turned regal with the sheer, attached, floor kissing cape.
Aisha Rao’s vision of bridal couture was a grand mix of festive, occasion and wedding attire for the couple.
RIMZIM DADU – ‘Oxynn’
Ever since Rimzim Dadu debuted at the Lakmē Fashion Week Gen Next 2007 show it was quite evident that this graduate from Pearl Academy, New Delhi, had an outstanding, distinct fashion identity.
Rimzim’s play with leather, chiffon, cord, Zari and fabrics has made her design sensibilities unconventional.
Now, a fashion and couture week regular, Rimzim’s latest collection “Oxynn” was an intense study in deconstruction as traditional crafts like Patola and mirror work underwent a designing transformation. The collection was inspired by the fierce, untamed spirit of Gujarat’s Banjara tribes.
Colours moved from aged gold, deep red, gunmetal to silver and midnight jewel toned shades. The collection was an ode to metal that could not be termed as the conventional traditional bridal attire. It was a tailored, sculpted, draped, formal occasion wear offering for both sexes. Rimzim’s signature metal wires did all the fashion talking for the collection that spoke a very futuristic language.
The brand’s favoured materials like steel, metallic wire and custom textiles were interlaced into garments and fabrics. The body con gowns, pencil skirts, draped sari/gowns, jackets, minis, lehengas and cholis brought a new fashion and style Grammer at the show.
Rimzim Dadu’s latest collection “Oxynn” could be termed as her best fashion story that will appeal to a global audience.
GRAND FINALE
J J VALAYA –‘East’
Bringing the Hyundai India Couture Week 2025 to a close, the finale presentatation by J J Valaya’s “EAST” collection was an intense study in history, heritage and couture. The embellishments set new standards for bridal couture, as Valaya’s signature chevron print was visible in all its glory on the dupattas and lehengas. The intricate zardozi work highlighted the couture designs for men’s and women’s wear.
The “EAST” collection drew its inspirations from the 17th and 18th centuries when opulence and richness was the leitmotif of the era. There was a marked element of the romance from the Balkans, the beauty of the Far East and the grandeur of India. Rich spice colours like antique neutrals, deep red and earthy tones were lavished on luxurious silk, velvet, brocade, tulle and organza.
The finale show by J J Valaya, unveiled India’s rich traditional fabrics and crafts and was a masterclass in couture with the “EAST” collection.
1 comment
[…] For the convenience of the reader, the article is in two parts. Part 1 – Day 1 – 4 Part 2 – Day 5 – 8 […]