By Meher Castelino
The fashion weeks in India have increasingly become all about over the top, extravagant wedding wear and party looks, the big-ticket items, irrespective of the designated season. Fashion weeks around the world have their individual identity that sets them apart. The Milan Fashion Week highlights Italian Fashion in the Prét category for men and women while the Paris Fashion Week has men’s, women’s and Haute Couture. London Fashion Week is considered a clothing show while the New York Fashion Week was started in 1943 by Eleanor Lambert press director of the American Fashion Industry’s first promotional organisation The New York Dress Institute. Lakmē Fashion Week started in 2000 by the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) holds biannual shows in Delhi and Mumbai has a mix look at fashion that has included ready-to-wear, Diffusion or Bridge and at times even Haute Couture.
ASOS – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
The latest Lakmē Fashion Week in Partnership with FDCI held in Mumbai at the Jio World Convention Centre made a concentrated effort on promoting the prét or Ready-to-wear category as well as crafts, khadi and even brands like ASOS and Max Fashion. Several designers stayed true to the mass market appeal with interesting and wearable collections.
ABHISHEK SHINDE
ABHISHEK SHINDE ‘Abhichiq’ – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
Men’s wear can either be stylish and creative or exaggerated and at times comical. Abhishek Shinde the Gen Next designer this season, showed the ‘Ciao’ collection for his label Abhichiq aimed at the trend setting male dresser. The line was sleek, very well-tailored with hand block prints and fabrics selection of handwoven materials that brought the sustainable element to the forefront. The boxy, baggy silhouette was aimed at comfort wear and the variety of Bermudas, shirts, cropped jackets, shackets, trousers and blazers fitted perfectly into the ready-to-wear category.
AK-OK BY ANAMIKA KHANNA
ANAMIKA KHANNA -Photo : Credit Pranjal Saklani
ANAMIKA KHANNA -Photo : Credit Pranjal Saklani
ANAMIKA KHANNA -Photo : Credit Pranjal Saklani
ANAMIKA KHANNA -Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
The opening show from AK-OK by Anamika Khanna called ‘The Silver Collar’ may have looked a bit on the couture side with the overload of silver jewellery that almost covered the models, but eliminating the glitter revealed elegant, feminine shapes that would add value to a woman’s wardrobe. Fluid, layered maxis, flowing silhouettes were all aimed at the neutral buyer with a great emphasis on inclusivity. Clever construction and intriguing weaves predominantly in black and white were aimed at a timeless wardrobe selection, which could be dressed up or down.
EKA
EKA
EKA
EKA
The EKA label by Rina Singh has always been pure unadulterated ready-to- wear. Her ‘Rite of Spring’ collection inspired by the glorious Amer Fort was a medley of colours, silhouettes and intense crafts, layered cleverly in pastels and bright hues. The collection dreamt up in cottons, silks, organzas and sheer cotton, along with linen, gauze and cotton silk, was gossamer like in its visual appeal and ideal for summer months. The many mix and match possibilities made the ensembles acquire mass appeal.
ABHISHEK ROY
ABHISHEK ROY – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
ABHISHEK-ROY
Making his debut at Lakmē Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI Abhishek Roy’s ‘Roy_Calcutta’ brand unveiled ‘The Nawabs of Bengal’ collection comprising only ethnic men’s wear. It was a line of simple kurtas, robes, churidars, angarkhas, coats, Bengali dhotis and luxurious shawls and dupattas in permutations and combinations of fabrics and crafts in a black and white story. The no-fuss men’s wear in rich silks and velvets with discreet gold/silver embroidery will make the creations a favourite of the fashion forward male buyer who is partial to tradition but with contemporary elements.
KHADI INDIA SHOW
Khadi has immense possibilities as a fabric and when given to designers who can understand its worth and beauty, the results are creations that women will long to possess.
Ka Sha – Photo Credit Pranjal Saklani
Ka-sha by Karishma Shahani Khan brought a new perspective to khadi in just black, white and gold projecting an almost couture like visual with patchwork her speciality and cord work, Zari, appliqués and embroidery for the collection called ‘Samantar II’.
NIKASHA – Photo Credit Pranjal Saklani
Nikasha Tawadey’s ‘Mahboob’ collection gave a retro feel to khadi but with contemporary weaves and detailing.
NIKI MAHAJAN – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
Niki Mahajan added a French touch to khadi with lovely prints and the baroque French brocade influences in the form of prints and colours,
CO EK
CO EK
CO EK
CO EK – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
The CoEK Khadi India collection was a mélange of silhouettes that were easy on the eye and body and will be ideal to push khadi onto a clear, international fashion path.
MAX URBAN
MAX URBAN
MAX URBAN
MAX URBAN
MAX URBAN
The Max Urban label from Max Fashion was pure ready-to-wear and aimed at the mass market. The brand’s two looks ‘Sicilian Summer’ and ‘The Amalfi Escape’ made its debut at Lakmē Fashion Week in Partnership with FDCI with a line of prints, silhouettes and colours aimed at the coming summer months for both men and women. Summer dresses, shirts, blouses, jeans, tunics, cool shackets, trousers, and Tees were all aimed at the mix and match look.
NAMRATA JOSHIPURA
NAMRATA JOSHIPURA
NAMRATA JOSHIPURA
NAMRATA JOSHIPURA
NAMRATA JOSHIPURA – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
Designer Namrata Joshipura redefined athleisure looks when she had a collab with R|Elan™ and used the company’s latest fabrics. Her very sporty as well as evening looks were ideal for the health-conscious active women who want to look stylish as they sweat it out in and out of the gym. Sculpted body suits, puffer jackets, singlets, shorts Tees are all created from R|Elan™ Kooltex the next gen fabric. The collection also showcased ensembles crafted from R|Elan™ GreenGold, an eco-friendly fabric made using 100 per cent recycled post-consumer PET bottles, along with R|Elan™ SuperFeel, known for its ultra-soft touch and excellent drape.
S&N BY SHANTNU AND NIKHIL
S&N BY SHANTNU AND NIKHIL
S&N BY SHANTNU AND NIKHIL
S&N BY SHANTNU AND NIKHIL
S&N BY SHANTNU AND NIKHIL
The S&N label by Shantnu and Nikhil celebrated five years with the ‘Piazza Nova’ men’s wear collection. It was a sharply cut line with the right touches of discreet detailing, some bold embroidery for jackets along with a variety of separates and co-ord sets. It was a perfect prét line that will fly off the shelves.
THE SOMAIYA KALA VIDYA COLLECTIONS
SKV-Amruta-Vankar – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
SKV-Mubbasirah-Khatri- Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
SKV-Muskan-Khatri – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
SKV-Shakil-Ahmed – Photo Credit : Pranjal Saklani
When crafts persons from Kutch turn their fabrics into great stylish garments, the result is a line of clothes that will be coveted by women. The Somaiya Kala Vidya was launched to increase the awareness and value of ancient crafts in India and teach the artisans the latest techniques in marketing and business. The 22 days course, prepared the artisans to face the fashion audience in their debut show at Lakmē Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI. The crafts displayed by the designers were Ajrakh by Zaid Khatri and Mubbasirah Khatri, Mashru by Amruta Vankar, Bandhani by Muskan Khatri and Batik by Shakil Anand. The fabrics were turned into beautifully designed ensembles that evoked a standing ovation from the audience.
SATYA PAUL
SATYA PAUL
SATYA PAUL
SATYA PAUL
The Satya Paul brand has gone through several design directors ever since its founder Satya Paul passed away in 2021. Paul started the first sari boutique L’Affaire in 1980 and then started his eponymous brand in 1985 with his son, Puneet. Sanjay Kapoor of Genesis Luxury look over the Satya Paul brand in 1998 with Satya Paul as designer till 2001, when Puneet took over as a designer of the brand till 2012. Masaba Gupta was brought in as Creative Director till 2014 and for a short stint Gauri Khan wife of super star Shah Rukh Khan, was the designer in 2015. Reliance Brands took over the label in 2018 and brought in Rajesh Pratap Singh in 2020 as the Creative Designer. From 2024 the Abraham and Thakore label drove the Satya Paul brand, and the designers’ presented their first collection this season, which embraced the Satya Paul philosophy of prints, colours and fabrics. ‘The Alchemy’ collection had saris, with a modern twist, kaftans, tunics, dresses, robes, playsuits kurtas, culottes and shirts, in multi hues. The inspirations were Kelly and Matisse art, which was perfectly translated on the outfits, scarves, belts, ties, bags, clutches. It was a riot of colours that fitted perfectly into the founder’s and brand’s ethos.
TARUN TAHILIANI
TARUN TAHILIANI
TARUN TAHILIANI
TARUN TAHILIANI
OTT by Tarun Tahiliani had all the elements of prét with a touch of luxury as layered separates gilets, dresses, structured kaftans were offered in linen, Chanderi, georgette, organza and jersey.
