Milan / Mumbai
Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 menswear presentation in Milan in June 2025 featured leather footwear closely resembling India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals, without reference to origin or Geographical Indication (GI) status. The omission triggered public criticism in India, followed by legal scrutiny through a Public Interest Litigation and formal government engagement.
On 10 December 2025, Prada signed a Memorandum of Understanding with two Indian public sector bodies—LIDCOM (Maharashtra) and LIDKAR (Karnataka)—at the Consulate General of Italy in Mumbai during the Italy–India Business Forum. The MoU establishes the framework for a limited-edition project titled “PRADA Made in India x Inspired by Kolhapuri Chappals.”
The agreement provides for the manufacture of 2,000 pairs of sandals in India by artisans from Maharashtra and Karnataka. Priced at approximately USD 930, the collection is scheduled for global release in February 2026 across 40 Prada stores and the brand’s official e-commerce platform.
Kolhapuri chappals are handcrafted across eight districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka and were granted GI status in 2019, conferring legal recognition of provenance, technique, and collective cultural ownership. The MoU positions state institutions as intermediaries, formalising attribution and artisan participation after international commercial exposure has already occurred.
Prerna Deshbhratar, IAS, Managing Director, LIDCOM, stated that the project reflects “a sustained dialogue and a shared commitment to honour generations of artisans,” adding that the collaboration represents “an ethical partnership where a global brand works directly with artisans… recognizing their expertise and giving them full credit.”
Dr K. M. Vasundhara, Managing Director, LIDKAR, said the initiative was aimed at “preserving this GI-tagged craft and appreciating our artisans,” while enabling global opportunities and sustainable livelihoods for leather-working communities in Karnataka and Maharashtra.
The MoU also outlines training and skill-development programmes aligned with Prada’s “Made In…” initiative and the Prada Group Academy model. Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group Head of Corporate Social Responsibility, described the collaboration as “a meaningful cultural exchange,” adding that the Group is “committed to developing training programmes supporting Indian artisans and ensuring their craftsmanship secures its place in today’s evolving industry.”
Notably, these safeguards, acknowledgements, and institutional frameworks follow—rather than precede—the design’s debut on a global luxury runway.
When recognition follows replication, cultural protection operates not as prevention, but as post-hoc correction.
About
Prada Group
Prada Group is an Italian luxury goods company that owns the brands Prada, Miu Miu, Church’s, Car Shoe, Versace, Pasticceria Marchesi, and Luna Rossa. The Group designs, manufactures, and distributes ready-to-wear, leather goods, footwear, and accessories, and operates in eyewear and beauty through licensing agreements. It has a retail presence in over 70 countries through approximately 620 directly operated stores, alongside e-commerce and selected wholesale partners. As of June 30, 2025 (excluding Versace), Prada Group operates 25 owned manufacturing facilities and employs 15,529 people.
LIDCOM
Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation Ltd. (LIDCOM) is a Government of Maharashtra Public Sector Undertaking established on 1 May 1974. Originally under the Department of Industries, it was later brought under the Department of Social Welfare, Cultural Affairs and Sports to extend financial assistance to communities engaged in the leather sector. With over 50 years of operation, LIDCOM supports and empowers traditional leather artisans in Maharashtra, preserves craft heritage through empanelled artisans producing GI-tagged Kolhapuri footwear and other leather products, and promotes sustainable market integration in line with the “Make in India” initiative.
LIDKAR
Dr Babu Jagjivan Ram Leather Industries Development Corporation Ltd. (LIDKAR) was established by the Government of Karnataka in 1976 and has operated under the Social Welfare Department since 2011. Its mandate is the development of Karnataka’s leather industry and the socio-economic upliftment of Scheduled Caste leather artisans. Through training, employment generation, industrial and marketing support, and welfare programmes, LIDKAR strengthens artisan livelihoods while preserving traditional skills. In addition to development schemes, it undertakes commercial activities, retailing artisan-made leather products under the Lidkar brand through 15 Leather Emporiums, exhibitions, and e-commerce platforms across the state.
