Gokarna,
Karnataka, India
Treeland. A walk in the ‘foerst’
26 acres; 24 villas. No surprise that such a property would include verdant forests with hundreds of species of plants – from giant banyans to tiny florals, interspersed by winding trails, large water bodies and even undulating hills. Add to that birdsong through the day – yes, even during a tropical midday walk, the tweets and chirps are almost incessant. Indeed, there are hundreds of varieties of fauna – birds, butterflies, a fair sprinkling of mammals and reptiles. Of course, the diversity of flora is even more, again hundreds of species. And yes, all of this is besides the azure Arabian Sea, with just a strip of golden beach separating the two.
A stunning banyan – one in between two rainwater harvesting lakes
Indeed, for anyone seeking to relax, rejuvenate and maybe get a new direction in life, there is hardly a better place than Swaswara, perched at the northern end of Karnataka’s coast. While visiting, I met at least three individuals who had come with that express purpose – to find a new lease in life. SwaSwara, literally your inner voice, part of CGH Earth Experience Hotel’s enviable, exclusive retreats, has long been used by those seeking to reconnect and find a better balance in life. Most come for 2 to 3 weeks, with a wellness goal in mind.
The canopies are just majestic
Lots of captivating plants
The ayurveda physicians here, Drs. Sunil and Subhash, are not just expert diagnosticians, they run a strict ship – in terms of diet and exercise. Yes, there is often a twinkle in their eye as they solicitously ask whether the oat porridge was enjoyable! But then, their therapies are wonderful, say those adhering to them. Yes, many guests are regular, homing in annually, or occasionally even more frequently, when they feel ‘the call’.
Beyond the diet
Cocum restaurant with its stunning thatched roof
Food comes in regular and ‘healthy’ options
While wellness is the major goal at the resort, it isn’t limited to physiological variants. Therapies come in various forms. From yoga and meditation to massages to rigorous ayurvedic treatments, there’s a lot on offer. And oh, such lovely pranayama locations – from a vast studio to under the dense canopies of trees to even a hilly nook overlooking the sea with wonderful vistas to distract. There’s an entire art studio with a resident artist, where one can not only indulge in various art forms including pottery, there is also art meditation. There are daily interactive cooking sessions. Then there is a centra pool, with some of the most stunning views of surrounding hills. Budget time for this – you will find it difficult to exit the pool with a backdrop of gentle green rolling hills.
Bird watching tours within this vast property are popular but can also turn into butterfly watching tours and even tree admiring tours. Note the banyans, one of which is about 400 years old – older than the Taj Mahal! Don’t miss the other flora though, including the lovely fields that grow a variety of vegetables, some spices and even rice, all of which are consumed within the property.
Central lawns
You could also step outside the property, which is built adjacent to the stunning Om Beach. Fronting the Arabian Sea, it is enchanting, with enough scope for entertainment and solitude, depending on the season and even time of day! Guaranteed to make you well-er by just being there taking in the glowing sunsets. Further afield is the temple town of Gokarna, encapsulating the charm and challenges of south Indian temple towns – beautiful architecture, a love pond, combined with people peddling artifacts, cows asserting their right of way in the narrow streets, the fragrance of their droppings combining with the heady one of flowers and incense on sale all around. The discerning visitor would do well to visit the nearby saltworks instead – in between SwaSwara and the town. Naturally produced by evaporation of the sea water in the vast backwaters, sanikatta or salt production here is a centuries old tradition.
The ‘three domes’ are the focal point of Swaswara.
The cuisine is guaranteed to benefit your body and can be quite flavourful. For regular guests, there’s even paneer etc. Seafood is particularly popular. Each day, food is served several times in the beautiful Cocum restaurant. Just entering this vast dome – yes one the three main domes visible in the pics – is a wow moment – it’s thatched room tapering to a point high above, while a row of open spaces offer tantalising views of all around. There is also the beachfront Anamaya restaurant. With its shack-like ambience, the darkness lightly pierced with wavering candlelight, swaying int the breeze, it’s an enchanting look. Add to that the melodies of the sea – from gently lapping splashes to roaring waves when the sea wants to assert its attitude, this is yet another unforgettable experience.
Locally sourced flowers
Incidentally, there is no in-room dining. Food is only permitted in the designated food areas – as the resort is teeming with fauna – yes, the ones had you so allured, you might even have fondly stroked a few earlier – they need food too and leaving food outside does not always lead to a tranquil experience! However, there is complimentary high tea in a delightful lawn, all the more flavourful for the views of the waterbodies.
For me there were some less obvious aspects that impressed even more. The water harvesting measures, planned and made about two decades ago, are a testament to CGH founder Jose Dominic’s vision, most visible today in the shape of rainwater harvesting water bodies. The area is water deficient and the property is self-sufficient in its water needs, not impacting the water requirement of the neighboring village. The extensive use of local laterite in all the structures is remarkable, making the surface breathe well, and aesthetic as well. The annual replacement of thatched roofs with coconut fronds provides employment for threatened skills.
Om beach offers both quiet and vibrant corners
Then there is the staff. Largely local, exceptionally courteous and helpful, the 80 odd staff is exceptional, whether with the massages or in the kitchen, or the soft spoken Devadatta Naik, Assistant General Manager, who is also the resident expert on avian related subjects. They will even help guide you to the most Insta-worthy spots. My tip – for flattering pics, seek out Peter.
Wonder Villas
The 1,160 square feet villas are sheer delight. Arranged in three groups towards the centre of the property, they are designed in the local Konkani style and with locally found materials – laterite dominating, they are a living testimony on how to be sustainable in the use of materials and yet cater to a luxury guest all the while ensuring you lose your heart to the aesthetics of the place.
A view of the rear of B block villas, which opens over one of the rain water harvesting lakes.
Hmm… My villa, with a skylit inner courtyard, three trees, a shower that is again open to the skies, huge storage areas, an upper area that is meant for yoga practice but can provide a cozy nook for relaxing, snoozing, or just taking in the tropical views. A freshly done kollam magically appears every evening.
A view of the Arabian Sea from a pranayama perch at Swaswara
There are different wellness programmes currently on offer at SwaSwara. While the signature programme is the three-night Swa Well-being, a perfect blend of immersive experiences in nature, art exploration, Ayurveda, Yoga, meditation and interactive cooking sessions on healthy cuisine. For even shorter breaks, their Spirit of Life programme is ideal for those preferring shorter breaks. SwaSwara also has longer duration Ayurveda programmes for rejuvenation, detox and Panchakarma. For longer treatments, the Ayurveda Detox and Panchakarma is 14 days or more and includes two curative treatments a day.
B block villas at night
Nine treatment rooms offer various massages
Kollams are done every evening in front of the villas, each different
A description reads – a space where the power of the ocean and the magnificence of the wilderness come together with the healing touch of Ayurveda, the calming strength of Yoga, the joy of creative exploration through art and nourishment through healthy, fresh, wholesome and local cuisine. Wordy? Sure. If you are looking to rejuvenate yourself while balancing the needs of your body, mind and spirit, SwaSwara is that perfect blend.
Location
Om Beach , Gokarna , Karnataka
Nearest Airport : Dabolim, Goa
Drive Time : 3.5 hours
Nearest town : Gokarna , Karvar
Railway stations : Gokarna , Kumta , Karvar
