by Meher Castelino
How many ways are there to innovate in bejewelled adornments really? One would assume innovations in jewellery design would have run dry over the past 5000 years of its history. But I was proved wrong at the India International Jewellery Week 2015, which was held in Mumbai from August 3-6, 2015. The event was powered by GIA, and revealed rising stars from various gems and jewellery institutes who created an impact with their talent. The jewellery artisans with generations of training in the craft have been joined by designers trained at special institutes, bringing a new twist to the old. Here are some very promising jewellery designers we spotted at the event. The photograph selections are from the show in general.
Indian Institute of Gems & Jewellery, Mumbai
Gitanjli sahijwaala presented the “Lotus Ssutra” collection, which featured chokers, earrings and bracelets that had an almost surreal feel. Eye catchers were the lotus pendant with matching haath phool, draped necklace with kada and a square geometric necklace with lotus motifs and earrings. Shimani Agarwal’s“Druzy Dzire” collection had special quality of agates with unfinished and rough treatment. There was the daring necklace-cum- shoulder and arm harness with bold gold chains and the neck to navel multi strands neck piece, haath pool, Maatha Patti.
Tanya Ajmera’s “Feathers of Paradise” was inspired by the age old feathers, which have been symbols of authority and power for kings, priests and chiefs. Madhura Bhelkar ornament sets had hexagon shapes inspired by the Honey Comb that appeared as cut-outs or pieces for necklaces. Shades of black, gold and yellow, tasselled earrings and pendants with precious stones, lacy intricate cuff, geometric hexagon hoops – very nicely done. Karan Agarwal’s ‘Candere Collection’ had high chokers embellished with 3D petals as the focal point. Gem encrusted earrings, a waist length Raani Haar, Tikkas, bangles and earrings were nice, but the winner was the one-shoulder draped peacock necklace, grand cummerbund, hair ornament and cluster of assorted bangles
Indian Institute of Gems & Jewellery, Delhi
Cherry Sahni used South Seas Pearls, uncut and full cut diamonds, for her collection ‘Tessels’. Noteworthy were the tassels knotted at the end of each jewellery piece, the chains of beads, and a neck to navel chain with a great pendant and tassels. Rahul Luthra’s “Enchantress” collection revolved around black and gold with the clever use of contemporary motifs in enamel and onyx. The main emphasis was on hand sawed Jali, along with hanging chains and stones that highlighted the collection. Rahul displayed a fabulous line of Wazech collars, body and hand harnesses, ankle cuffs, cummerbunds and hair ornaments.
Rachna Gupta showed the ‘Rajas’ collection, which was a creative blend of Indian traditional pieces with modern accents. Here was giant opulence with large beads, abstract enormous pendants, long navel kissing five-tiered pendant, asymmetric rings and geometric pieces for the neck teamed with huge Jhumkhas, angular large dual circle necklace, kada and earring. Anushka Singhal’s “Felicia” collection had the ruby chain with an imposing square pendant, curls of gold and gems for bangle, bracelet in glittering gold with diamonds and three rows of black and white pearls for the neck. The final diamond set with gleaming the collection the finishing touch.
Indian Institute of Gems & Jewellery, Jaipur
The 21 students of Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery, Jaipur presented “Glam Revival 2015” and recreated the style of the glamorous 80’s era in two sequences comprising 16 pieces. Floral, geometric and talismanic, strands of pearls clasped with gold florets, enamel earrings, abstract bow necklaces, delicately crafted butterfly pendants, dainty gold bouquets of flowers with gem stone, arm-cum-brooch in gold and pearls, tiered pendant and the striking gold diamond and ruby head band were superb pieces – blend of old and new.
The second sequence by Savio Jewellery was a line-up of a repetition of motifs under diamond jewellery collection. Diamond and ruby set designs had trellises, lattice and lacy patterns with floral 3D motifs, hoops with ruby clustered centres, a diamond/ruby asymmetric neck piece, looped necklace and some more
National Institute of Design, Ahmadabad
Dhruv Singh’s “Bijouterie” collection was a colourful blend of precious stones with diamonds and pearls. A tribute to the 21st century Maharani adorned in vintage pieces. Avantika Kumar Agarwal was inspired by the Lotus for her “Aaraa Signature Collection”. Ornaments were designed in 92.5 per cent sterling silver with 22 K gold plating and encrusted with pearls and semi-precious gems; the trellis designs and jaali kaam. There were lattice work on neckpieces; lotus on circular ear studs, a Tiara, ear-cum-hair ornaments.
Several well known celebrities walked the ramp at the IIJW 2015 for assorted jewellery designers. Here are actresses Richa Chaddha, Chitrangada Singh, Tennis ace Sania Mirza, Dia Mirza, and Preity Zinta.