By Meher Castelino
The Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2015 season opened with not only a new title sponsor but a trimmed down line-up of designers. Making an impact on the luxury scale are the top ten designers who pushed their creative elements just a bit more and made it to the eye-catching segment of glamour and style.
Rajesh Pratap Singh
Opening the Amazon India Fashion Week 2015 with a collection that had a truly quirky sound – “Because Medicine is the Best Laughter”, the very structured garments in black and white with graphic detailing proved Rajesh Pratap Singh’s mastery over form and construction. The salient points were hand sewn creations in leather and wool with suture like seams and ikat along with stripes and checks with hints of polka dots on stark textures with colour blocking, that gave the garments an amazing appeal. The fabrics coated and embalmed with gum were the highlight of the collection. Sharply cut dresses in varying silhouettes gave the wearer a wide spectrum to choose from.
Paying tribute to divine female energy the “Rajputana Kumari” collection was a study in luxury with velvet, faded silk suede and shimmering zari coming together in a fashionable mélange. Gold made an occasional appearance along with pearls for the elegant silhouettes that ranged from gowns and long coats to evening wear. Shades of deep tarnished gold along with metallics, white as well as burnished tones added to the regal look of the ensembles.
Bringing to centre stage ink dots connected by fine pen lines the collection was inspired by Picasso’s own constellations. With linen and matka silk as the base, the colour palette was controlled with cobalt, ivory and black with splashes of sudden orange for the almost zen like creations that could work as conversation pieces because of their interesting silhouettes and construction.
Abraham & Thakore
Bringing recycling to the high fashion stage, the designing duo’s stylish touches with nylon and polyester patchwork along with quilting gave the Autumn/Winter collection a couture feel. Adding traditional crafts like patchwork Kantha in varying forms of wool, cotton, steer hide and waffle; the pair brought in X-ray film sequins for the fusion line, which ranged from kurtas, dupattas and churidars to Aligarh pants, jackets, shirts, lehengas, cholis and saris. The colour story was sombré with black, chocolate, charcoal, ivory and grape creating the right image. Calling the collection “Old New” the recycled brocade borders, ribbons, snaps, hooks and studs were interesting embellishments to highlight the garments.
With his trademark drama for evening wear at centre stage Gaurav Gupta had micro suiting, metallics, jersey, neoprene and suede for the look that was ultra-glam. Colours were deep and like the title of the collection “Risk”, it was black, green, blue, grey and plum that made an arresting entry. From sleek pinstriped tuxedos to frock coats, jumpsuits, asymmetric jackets, gowns and dresses the look appeared pure gothic with a burst of ruffles and feathers. Here was a collection that was aimed at the woman of the world who knows her way around as she struts down the global routes.
Hemant & Nandita
The “Boho Caravan” collection from Hemant and Nandita moved slowly as it appealed to the free spirited woman who desires easy dressing. Capes, covers, free flowing gowns and maxis in dusky shades of brown, smoke grey, olive, green, mustard and dull red with hints of floral and detailing completed the look. Thread embroidery offered a carpet like touch with swirling ethnic prints in rich earthy tones to create intricate textures. With fabrics like tweeds, plaids, velvet and felt, the collection was ideal for the woman who longs for fashion with an effortless elegance.
Inspired by 18th century tapestry, Damasks and European floral patterns the collection’s fabric directions pointed to untwisted threads of silk, organza, tulle, silk crepe and printed scuba fabrics. The colours swayed from deep navy, ivory, blue, pink and black with hits of mustard, green and electric. Resham dori florals and tapestry prints with paisleys in shaded tones worked really well for the pleated skirts, jackets, dresses and cropped tops in a sculpted form which gave the ensembles a feminine and luxurious appeal.
Pankaj & Nidhi
“Roche Minerale” was the name of the designing duo’s collection that was inspired by the riches that lie beneath the folds of the earth where rocks and minerals abound. With rubies and pink diamonds as an inspiration, the swirling Trompe L’oeil embroidery was the highlight of the collection. In colours of red, pink, sapphire, blue, carbon, grey and burnt sienna, the collection of glamorous evening wear was what fashion is all about for Autumn/Winter 2015.
It is a little difficult to describe Amit Aggarwal’s collection with its extreme layering of different textures and forms, which literally offered an “out of this world” look. Inspired by the bindi, which was shown in varying shapes on the garmnets; the designer created intricate textiles with various dyeing techniques while using Chanderi and ikat as the main fabrics. The colours were restricted to black and white with red, blue and grey being the focal point of the collection. The creation of new textiles with indigenous techniques gave the collection a futuristic touch with organic and inorganic materials. Contrasting silhouettes appeared for asymmetrical skirts as they met peplums and skater dresses were paired with Lycra leggings; while jackets and tunics took on an unconventional construction mode, which gave a new twist to Autumn/Winter wear.
“The French Love Song” by Payal Singhal had all the romance and feminine charm with Chantilly lace as the base and a touch of gamine Parisian accents. With tulle, organza, silk and of course lace, the sensuous touches of the collection were highlighted with muddy pastels, like dusky blue, rose blush and stone grey. The embellishments with French knots along with zardosi and leather appliqués created a Neo Indian bridal wear line that had that distinct feel of luxe styling. Dreamy long skirts, prestitched saris, sexy lacy blouses, pants, will-power tunics, floor kissing ball gowns and cute fragile boleros revealed a fairy tale like collection.