The stars of tomorrow shone bright on the runways of Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015,season held in Delhi at the Pragati Maidan from October 8th-12th, 2014. As also did some of the old guard that continues to set high standards and inspire the new lot. The Luxury Chronicle brings its own observations on the mint fresh designers who are breaking away from the beaten track to showcase their genius, and those that continue to light up the sky with their creative spark.
By Meher Castelino
The Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 season held in Delhi at the Pragati Maidan from October 8 to 12, 2014 revealed some expert use of embellishments, fabrics and prints from the seasoned designers, while a new bunch of trendsetters are all set to make waves on the fashion scene in the future.
Three designers set the standard for the important aspects of Indian fashion, which moves from traditional embellishments to fabrics and prints
Rohit Bal – Pasha of Embellishments
Truly the King of Embellishments, he has given Indian fashion a bench mark not many can match. Rohit Bal’s Grand Finale collection that ended the Wills India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 season was called “Gulbagh”. It was a floral fantasy with the rose as the centre of attraction. The immaculately embroidered ensembles were breath taking in their beauty as bouquets of flowers created magic under the creative genius of Rohit’s designs. Women’s and men’s wear was regal in form and design with a marked ethnic touch that will be ideal for the forthcoming bridal season.
Tanvi Kedia – Prints To The Fore
When it comes to rustic ethnic prints Tanvi Kedia has created a name for herself. For her collection called “Tabibito” Tanvi had a mélange of folklore prints that evoked nostalgia and vintage visions from Afghanistan, Pakistan and India. Tanvi presents them in intricate digital forms, ornamented with embroidery. The colourful floral patterns and pop colours liven up the mosaic like prints for blouses, kaftans, dresses, skirts, jackets, pants and shorts which are all ideal for high summer wear.
Urvashi Kaur – Fabric Fantasy
Amongst the seasoned designers, Urvashi Kaur’s fabric experiments work really well. Block printed organic cotton, striped linens, ecru checks, block prints on matka and pin striped linen come together in shades of black, white and indigo for a variety of mix and match creations that tell a perfect summer story. Draped Chanderi gives an off shoulder waterfall dress with sheer linen hem a new fashion direction while saris are turned into show stopping entries with a amalgamation of fabrics.
Nine designer names that created an impact on the ramp proved that the business of Indian fashion is in very safe hands. Their creativity pushed the boundaries and revealed designs that will not only appeal to the Indian fashion followers; but will inform the international buyers that Indian designers are in tune with global trends and styles.
Pretty as a picture is the pastel collection of pink, ivory and white cocktail creations with fluid feminine silhouettes, ideal for summer evenings. From draped cowl skirts to flared tops, from cropped pants and asymmetric dresses the look moves to stately white gowns with a splash of gold work and regal lehengas with floor kissing covers.
Here is a young at heart label called “Saaj” for her collection called “Nouveau Prophecy”. Bringing natural fabrics like jute, cotton, linen and flax to the fore front and adding metallic yarns to the traditional gotta work, the result is a line of feminine creations in gold, ivory and grey. The easy shapes have a natural geometric touch that highlights the garments.
For Red Carpet splendour, Jyoti Sharma offers for her label “Bhanuni” a line of striking gowns, flared ornate smock dresses, cocktail creations with a seductive see-through touch and full flared miniskirts with ornate boleros. For an exotic entry she has a multi striped ombré creation that is mind boggling in its construction.
The look is young, trendy and edgy with kinky prints, shredded denim patch work for miniskirts with frayed edges. It is cool hippy summer gear with a new twist for the sari with tights, track pants, plastic embellished cropped tops and slogan splashed Tees at times teamed with tulle and plastic layered skirts.
Take a mix of colours like bright orange, electric blue, grey, ink and add white and black for a collection that moves from sexy swimwear to dainty printed bias skirts, frothy tops, sheer pants and jackets and finally ends in sleek gowns and orange covers. It’s spring/summer wear at it vibrant best in silhouettes that will create a fashionable stir.
Called “Euphoria”, it’s a look that will take the wearer into a fashionable nirvana with each outfit. For her label “Annaika”, Kanika Saluja’s ethnic and western offerings of sari with peplum blouse swirling mini dresses with moulded bodices, draped cinched gowns with large doses of placement mirror work will turn into conversation pieces.
When a collection is called “Shakti” it has to make a strong fashion statement on all fronts. Poonam Dubey uses a colour pallete of ivory, red, gold, silver and brings in woven towels, Tangail and Sholapith which reveal the diversity of the regions like West Bengal and Assam. Drapes and silhouettes meld in perfect harmony for a line that has a traditional as well as global appeal.
Here is a label that has a great mix of embellishments, styles, prints, patterns and silhouettes. From tea dresses to trapeze silhouettes and from linen washed boxy jackets to trousers with oversized hemline, the look is trendy. Kantha, floral appliqués, ombré stripes, floral dot prints and easy shapes make this a label to watch out for.
The Spring/Summer 2015 collection is called “Dhoop Chaon” inspired by the Sanjhi craft of paper cutting in Madhura where the motifs are cut into designs. The 3D floral designs with hand cut petal embroidery adds to the beauty of the garments. Colours are lemon, fiery orange, blue with beige and pewter along with red and gold. The fitted dresses, gowns and jackets have an androgynous touches but are still utterly feminine to behold.