Did the trends at the LFW x FDCI have anything new and exciting to look forward to? Yes and No. Colours have always been too varied to create a trend, but they did point to more whites and allowed reds, and hot hues to take a back seat. There were definite trend pointers in the print and patterns arena with everything from animals to fruits and vegetables making a fashion statement. There was a moderate interest in new fabrics with khadi in the forefront and traditional weaves making some noise. Silhouettes proved to be very adventurous with minute detailing at times emphasised. Looks were boxier but that did not mean that the contours of the body were ignored. Overall, it will be a season when a wide range of buyers will be happy depending on their size, shape, and requirements.
The trends set at Lakmé Fashion Week in partnership with FDCI were a mélange of stories that will offer myriad directions to suit the fastidious dresser. The main pillars that set the fashion trends around the world and in India comprise, prints and patterns, colours, silhouettes, detailing and of course fabrics. These five segments revealed the looks for the coming season in the country at the fashion week.
PRINTS AND PATTERNS
Nothing adds more excitement to an ensemble than the prints and patterns that embellish the fabrics and the look for the coming season is conventional but also funky. Watch out for the very dominant checks and stripes that made strong fashion statements for designers Ashish N Soni and Ka-Sha in all sizes and colours. The Abraham & Thakore label played with a language of alphabets and numerals, while flora and fauna were the print for many. Triune splashed the collection with birds and animal prints, Rara Avis brought the leopard print to centre stage, but for Leena J Singh, Gauri & Nainika, Mahima Mahajan and Varun Bahl it was flowers and leaves all the way. Ashish N Soni’s unconventional vegetables and fruit story was a fun menu but for Pawan Sachdeva, the infinity symbol was the print of the season and his inspiration.
The colour directions for clothes during the fashion week are a must as they set the trends for the rest of the fashion Industry like cosmetics, footwear, and accessories. While black and white ruled the ramp for designers Pankaj & Nidhi, Sanjukta Dutta, Abraham & Thakore and Kalki, the colours of the rainbow ran riot on the ramp with every hue, shade and tone possible for the designers who created casual, formal, resort or bridal wear.
What adds to the look of the collection is the detailing. Cord work, tassels and fringes created an unusual surface texturing direction for Triune, as well as Pankaj & Nidhi, while the accent on great lapels was seen for Pankaj & Nidhi, Rara Avis, Mahima Mahajan and Pawan Sachdeva. Embroidery is of course the leitmotif of Indian designer collections and when it comes to bridal splendour there was an intense, extreme direction for embellishments from Amita Gupta Sustainable, péro, Vvani, Tatwamm by Abhishek & Vinita, Kalki and Swati Vijaivargie. An interesting look was men’s trousers with side slits at the ankles created by Ashish N Soni.
Pushing the sustainable angle for most collections, designers zeroed in on khadi during Sustainable Fashion Day. But when it came to bridal finery it was the brocades and lush silks that held their own, as well as rich fabrics from various states like the Mekhela Chador for Sanjukta Dutta and the weaves for Tasva. The fabric medley by 11.11/eleven eleven for its ‘Hand Spun’ collection put an emphasis on hand weaves. Labels like Ka-Sha and Kaveri preferred Chanderi and Linen respectively, while for Swati Vijaivargie it was Mashru. The sheer story still ruled for body-con clothes as suggested by Geisha Designs and Falguni Shane Peacock.
SHAPE OF THE SEASON
The silhouette is the ruling factor when it comes to trends and shapes that will catch attention. Starting with the anti-fit, baggy look from designers Shweta Kapur, the silhouette to watch out for is shoulder extensions from Kalki and Pankaj & Nidhi. Shrugs, capes and robes long, short or mini, appeared over everything from minis, maxis, gowns and even saris for designers Tarun Tahiliani, Pallavi Mohan, Label Debelle, Amita Gupta Sustainable and Swatti Kapoor. Blazers make a comeback for most men’s and women’s wear designers like Abraham & Thakore. Capes and ponchos are still a favourite for Rara Avis, Kalki, Faabiiana and Sanjukta Dutta, while the lungi/sarong skirts made statements for Varendah and Payal Pratap who added an asymmetric, geometric touch to them. The trench coat is the ‘must have’ for the new season said Pawan Sachdeva and Mahima Mahajan. From Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango, it was the return of the balloon and bubble skirts as well the drop waist look.